Tai Poutini Polytechnic Rock Week 1
Location Lake Wanaka
Group COE-1
Instructor Becks, Paula
David, David
Date 15/3/16 - 18/3/16
Grade
10 - 17
Weather
Wet on arrival, Weather improving into
Learning Climbing Techniques (smearing and edging) Abseiling, Lead
climbing, belaying
Summary of Week
Day 1
We wake early in anticipation for the day ahead. All of our gear
has been packed the night before and is ready to go. We gather at the shed,
jump into the vans and bon voyage we’re off on our journey. It’s a long drive
through the glacier country, Haast pass and then onto Lake Wanaka. The road passes lakes, rivers and mountains and weaves its
way through some of New Zealand's most spectacular forests. When we arrive in
Wanaka we are greeted with a cold southerly and rain. We had
planned to go rock climbing at one of Wanaka's many crags but the rain put an
end to that idea. Instead the tutors tee up an indoor climbing session.
- Is their harness fitted correctly?
- Is their re-threaded figure of eight tied correctly through
the climbers belay loop?
- Has the belayer put the ATC in correctly? (The rope tied onto the climber should be in the top of the
belay device and out through the bottom side of the ATC)
- Has the belayer done up the P carabiner, and is it in position
correctly?
If this is all checked off correctly you are ready for a climb. I pair up with Rachel and as usual she’s enthusiastic and ready for the challenge. She takes on some really difficult climbs and really pushes herself. This is a good chance to do some belaying and it’s not long and Bex is critiquing my technique. I’m up next to climb and find early on that it's a real struggle. A few climbs in I start finding my feet. I make it to the top of a few climbs but finish the day wondering how I’m going to find the week ahead. I guess there is only one way to find out and tomorrow’s story will tell.
Day 2
We wake in our tents, get ready to go and prepare for our
first day climbing on a natural rock face. We start the day bouldering, learning
basic climbing techniques, smearing and edging. This gets the blood pumping and teaches us to
trust our feet rather than loading up our arms. First we learn how to set up a top rope climb using our slings. This
involves connecting a dynamic rope threaded through two ‘P’ carabiners to a sling
which is then attached to an anchor point via a carabiner. I set up a top rope system and get the
opportunity to test it out. Isaac belays
me and I struggle my way up, eventually getting to the top. We take turns climbing other climbers’
systems. I’m amazed that despite there
being minimal footholds I’m able to complete such tough climbs. This morning has been a good introduction to
climbing, and happily I break for lunch.
We start the afternoon at instructor Paula’s station where we practice some top rope sports climbs. I pair up with Isaac and attempt a grade 16 climb. The climb starts off well for me and I make quick progress. Before you know it I find myself at the crux of the climb. I push myself and can feel my muscles fatiguing. Paula and Isaac instruct me in how to make the next move and as I do I lose power and fall off the climb. I make several attempts and fail multiple times but the more I fail and hang on the top rope, the clearer the climb becomes. I nail it. I’m up. I didn’t think I could do it! Isaac belays me down and we move onto another climb, this time with an overhang. I charge into it and find myself most of the way up. I fail to reach far enough to my left to make the last hand hold. I fall, but there’s still more in me. Instructor Dave coaches me on and I give it another shot. This time I make it further up the overhang but I make the mistake of holding myself up without making the next move. Slowly my muscles fatigue and I drop off again. Sadly, we’ve run out of time and we start to descend.
4) Roughly pull up about 3 meters of rope and tie an overhand knot in it
on a bite and attach it to you harness.
9) Now double check all your systems. Start at the bottom of the rope checking that you can see both ends on the ground. Then run your eye up until you get to the next bit of gear you belay device. Check that it’s been put in properly, that the P carabiner is round the right way and done up. Check you prusik is tired correctly and tidily and that it’s attached to your belay loop via a carabiner. Also check that the carabiner is done up. Check your anchor system and bolts to make sure there solid and secure.
10) Now remove your cows tail/safety lines from the anchor system and put them out of the way on your harness. Once this is done you are now ready to abseil.
To end the day we get a chance to do this. Isaac has the first climb and I belay him as he makes the climb. He’s really nervous but with some coaching from Bex and with me fire man belaying him just in case something goes wrong he’s able to complete the abseil. It’s been a full day of learning and we’ve just simply run out of time, so I’ll have to complete an abseil tomorrow.
It’s a beautiful morning and we start the day practicing cleaning and abseil off a climbs. The tutors have set up top rope climbs earlier on in the morning so when we get there it’s all ready to go. I want to practice on a chain block before I go through it at height so I go through this with outward bound Dave. Once my confidence is up enough and I feel like I have a grip on it, so I size up a climb. A grade 17 becomes available and Tom is willing to belay me so I jump at the opportunity. I follow a crack up the rock face until I get to the crux of the climb. I push hard to make the move but my hands tire and I fall off. I try twice more with the same result. I’m about to give up but Tom’s encouragement and coaching spurs me on. I make it this time and the rest of the climb is complete. When I get to the top I set up an abseil and clean the climb with coaching from our tutors. Abseiling is a real high. We move on to another grade 17 climb. This time Gat belays me. It’s super challenging without many handholds. I’m more determined than ever. In so many spots I fall off the climb and hang there feeling for foot and hand holds. I make progress slowly, reassessing the climb each time. The call goes out for lunch and I’m still a few meters from the top. I keep pushing on and manage to make it within one meter of the top. I’m exhausted and time has run out. With that, Gat lowers me off the climb.
We start the afternoon at instructor Paula’s station where we practice some top rope sports climbs. I pair up with Isaac and attempt a grade 16 climb. The climb starts off well for me and I make quick progress. Before you know it I find myself at the crux of the climb. I push myself and can feel my muscles fatiguing. Paula and Isaac instruct me in how to make the next move and as I do I lose power and fall off the climb. I make several attempts and fail multiple times but the more I fail and hang on the top rope, the clearer the climb becomes. I nail it. I’m up. I didn’t think I could do it! Isaac belays me down and we move onto another climb, this time with an overhang. I charge into it and find myself most of the way up. I fail to reach far enough to my left to make the last hand hold. I fall, but there’s still more in me. Instructor Dave coaches me on and I give it another shot. This time I make it further up the overhang but I make the mistake of holding myself up without making the next move. Slowly my muscles fatigue and I drop off again. Sadly, we’ve run out of time and we start to descend.
We start a new session learning how to clean and abseil a
climb. Paula runs through and
demonstrates what we need to do on a chain block.
1) Communicate to your belayer, call “hold” and once your belay has communicated back “belayer holding” connect up your first safety line. Use your cows tail that is connected to your belay loop and place it on the anchor system and screw up your carabiner.
1) Communicate to your belayer, call “hold” and once your belay has communicated back “belayer holding” connect up your first safety line. Use your cows tail that is connected to your belay loop and place it on the anchor system and screw up your carabiner.
2) Connect a secondary safety line. Connect a quick draw into a separate
part of your cows-tail into the anchor system.
3) Check bolts and your anchor system ensure your carabiner has been
done up and ensure that you are happy with your safety lines. Once this is done
communicate to your belayer calling “ready to come off belay”. They will then
communicate back to you off belay.
4) Roughly pull up about 3 meters of rope and tie an overhand knot in it
on a bite and attach it to you harness.
5) Now untie your re-threaded figure of eight on your harness and thread
it through the links in the anchor system.
Once threaded through the links tie a figure of eight in the end of the
rope so that you don’t lose the rope when you untie you overhand knot connected
to your harness.
6) Untie your over hand knot and start pulling the rope through until
you can see the half way mark on the rope.
7) Now attach a prusik onto the rope above you using the classic method
and connect the other end into your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Dress the prusik knot and test it so that if
you do fall you know it will hold you.
8) Connect the climbing rope into your belay device with the rope
running through the top of the device and out the bottom. Clip in the p
carabiner into your belay loop and check it’s done up and facing the right way
round. Once your belay device is connected pull yourself up so that no weight
is on your safety line/cows tail. All the weight should be being held by your
belay device.
9) Now double check all your systems. Start at the bottom of the rope checking that you can see both ends on the ground. Then run your eye up until you get to the next bit of gear you belay device. Check that it’s been put in properly, that the P carabiner is round the right way and done up. Check you prusik is tired correctly and tidily and that it’s attached to your belay loop via a carabiner. Also check that the carabiner is done up. Check your anchor system and bolts to make sure there solid and secure. 10) Now remove your cows tail/safety lines from the anchor system and put them out of the way on your harness. Once this is done you are now ready to abseil.
To end the day we get a chance to do this. Isaac has the first climb and I belay him as he makes the climb. He’s really nervous but with some coaching from Bex and with me fire man belaying him just in case something goes wrong he’s able to complete the abseil. It’s been a full day of learning and we’ve just simply run out of time, so I’ll have to complete an abseil tomorrow.
It’s a beautiful morning and we start the day practicing cleaning and abseil off a climbs. The tutors have set up top rope climbs earlier on in the morning so when we get there it’s all ready to go. I want to practice on a chain block before I go through it at height so I go through this with outward bound Dave. Once my confidence is up enough and I feel like I have a grip on it, so I size up a climb. A grade 17 becomes available and Tom is willing to belay me so I jump at the opportunity. I follow a crack up the rock face until I get to the crux of the climb. I push hard to make the move but my hands tire and I fall off. I try twice more with the same result. I’m about to give up but Tom’s encouragement and coaching spurs me on. I make it this time and the rest of the climb is complete. When I get to the top I set up an abseil and clean the climb with coaching from our tutors. Abseiling is a real high. We move on to another grade 17 climb. This time Gat belays me. It’s super challenging without many handholds. I’m more determined than ever. In so many spots I fall off the climb and hang there feeling for foot and hand holds. I make progress slowly, reassessing the climb each time. The call goes out for lunch and I’m still a few meters from the top. I keep pushing on and manage to make it within one meter of the top. I’m exhausted and time has run out. With that, Gat lowers me off the climb.
After lunch we learn how to lead climb. This starts with a lesson from the tutors. They explain how to correctly clip quick draws into a bolt and how to lead climb belay. We practice then move on to another climb. I belay Gat on a grade 16 climb then attempt the climb myself. I can tell I’m getting tired because of how much I’m struggling and by my nervous. Never the less I make it to the top of the climb and enjoy the view at the top. The call goes out for the last climbs of the day as me and Gat jump on a grade 14. Gat charges up the climb with ease and is down before I know it. It’s my turn to climb it now and I’m enjoying the easy nature of the climb. At the top of the climb I set up an abseil. I’m still not the most efficient and require a little prompting on what to do in stages, but this in itself cements the process. I get there in the end and have a sweet abseil. What a day!!
Day 4
It’s our last day of climbing at Lake Wanaka and the
challenge is set right from the get go. Do as many climbs as you can. I haven’t
done a lead climb so I branch off with a group in the same boat and go to a different
location where we take on a simple lead climb. It takes a bit of time but it’s
worth it. There we complete a lead climb with no pressure and abseil down off
it. Back in the other location now me and Isaac set off to tackle as many
climbs as we can. We start off climbing a grade 14, which leads us on to climbing
a grade 16 and a difficult grade 17. We also make the most of lead climbing and
make it up a grade 12 and 14. I also take a lead climb fall on the grade 14
that catches Isaac by surprise. He braces and locks off his ATC to stop me from
falling. To take a lead fall is a great feeling and Isaac stoked for the opportunity.
As the day draws to a close I take on one more climb with Gabby as my belayer. I
start the climb and slowly make my way up the rock face. I use good technique and am calculated with my
foot and hand holds. I make the climb smoothly and tidily without making a mistake.
Now at the top of the climb I connect up
my safety line and start setting up for an abseil. Without questioning or
asking the tutors I put all the weeks learning into practise and abseil down
the climb. I couldn’t be happier with my last climb and in a way it summarises
and paints a picture of my climbing week. It shows me how much I’ve learnt and
how my attitude effected what I could do, it showed me the progress I’ve made and how putting work and effort into
something is worth it. It’s been an awesome experience and a week to be
remembered. Tai Poutini Polytechnic Rock Week 2
Location
Charleston & Greymouth Rock Wall
Group COE-1
Group COE-1
Instructor Becks, David, Kieran, Asher
Date 5/4/16 - 8/4/16
Grade 10 - 17
Weather Fine, Weather deteriorating with rain on the last day, 3 meter swells
Learning Correct nut placements, correct cam placements, building anchor systems, Top rope rescues, lead climb falls
Grade 10 - 17
Weather Fine, Weather deteriorating with rain on the last day, 3 meter swells
Learning Correct nut placements, correct cam placements, building anchor systems, Top rope rescues, lead climb falls
Summary of Week
Day 1
Our second week of rock climbing is about to begin and it
looks like the weather has shown up for us. There’s a massive high over us
bring in 3 meter swells. We follow the great coast road to Charleston and set
up camp. This sees us through to around mid-day. From here we learn about
natural pro gear in this spectacular area in the West Coast. While the tutors
explain and teach us about what makes a good wire placement we have the
pleasure of a pod of dolphins swimming by. Also distracting us are the amazing giant
walls of waves crashing into the rocky cliffs and blow hole.
Firstly we learn about placing
Bomber wire placements. To secure a bomber nut placement, scan the crack for a “V-slot” configuration that is restricting and place the nut. Then check
that the rock is solid and not lose or flaking and set the nut, ensuring that
the surface contact is good. We practice this for a while and then learn about
what makes bomber cam placements. First check for a solid rock that isn’t lose
or flaking. Then place the cam into a parallel crack that is restricting and
not flaring out. Ensure that the cam is placed in the middle of its range so
that it’s not over cammed or under cammed. Place the cam so that the surface
contact is touching the crack evenly and ensure the direction of pull is in the
direction of your fall. We practice cam
placements for a while and stop for lunch.
The rest of the day is spent building anchor systems. An anchor system is where you use cams, sling, wires and Hexs to create three solid points of contact. Once you have 3 solid points of contact attach 3 locking carabiners into them and tie on and thread through a rigging rope. Once the rigging rope is in a W shape tie an overhand knot in it ensuring that the system is equalised at each point. Now attach two P carabiners in the loop made from your over hand knot and in opposite directions. You have now built a bomb proof anchor system that you can climb or abseil from. Me and Isaac build an anchor system together and that see us too the end of the day.
Day 2
We start the morning with a stroll over to our climbing
site. There we gear up and get ready for the day ahead. The group breaks up and goes off to various sites. Two groups are to set up anchor systems for climbs on Usher and Cathedral cove cliffs. The other group of which I am in start off slow and steady and build anchor systems from bellow. I do this for some time and by around mid-morning there’s a chance to do some climbs that the others have set up. I pair up with Rachel taking turns belaying and climbing. The first climb we attempt is a climb that Justin has set up in Cathedral cove. It’s an awesome climb right at the end of a cliff with the waves crashing bellow you. After a few climbs its time refuel and energise. We stop for lunch and enjoy a piece of fruit and tasty ham rolls. With all cylinders firing it time to set up my first natural pro climb. I clip into the safety line and make my way along a ledge over to the climb. I start with a bomber sling placement making this the focal point of my climb. Then find a bomber hex placement followed by another sling. I piece my anchor system together and run through my checks. Job complete!! I see the rest of the day out climbing in the spectacular Cathedral cove. Some of the over hangs are a real struggle but what a day it’s been!!!
Day 3
We wake greeted by an overcast day with a low front moving
in. The plan today is to set up as many anchor systems as we can and to leave
just after lunch. We’re into our normal routine and in good time everyone has their
gear on and is raring to go. The first challenge of the day for me is to set up
an anchor system on Cathedral cove. This is one of the more difficult stations
so Asha gives me a few tips to get started. I start like I did yesterday
placing a sling over a rock making this the focal point of my climb. I then
search for cracks and find a couple of wire placements. One of my wire placements is bomber but the
other I have doubt about. I stick with it and set up my anchor system. When I’ve completed my anchor system I get
Asha to run through it with me. He point out the bad things in my anchor system
and gets me to thinking about what I could do to make the system more bomb
proof. My anchor system is pretty average but I really appreciated how Asha
allowed me to make mistakes to learn from. As he explains and point out things in
my anchor system I begin to understand. This for me is valuable learning and I
discover a bit about myself and how I learn. Asha then goes away while I
correct the system. This time the anchor system looks pretty good but there are
a few tweaks that need to be made before anyone can climb on it. I make the
tweaks and take away some sound learning.
Day 4
It’s our last day of rock climbing so we utilise a local
venue the ASB Greymouth gym. We’re all a little stiff from the last three days
of rock climbing so Asha takes us through a warm up. We start the day’s lesson by practising
bouldering techniques. We are shown how use our bodies, pulling them closer into
the wall making it easier to climb. We are also shown foot techniques and how
to use your hands in a way that they don’t get over worked. From here we do some top rope climbing and are
encouraged to take falls. Isaac and I take the challenge head on having completions
to see who can take the largest top rope fall. I take a massive fall but am
topped by Isaac who takes the largest fall of the day making a huge thud. “Yeah
boy that was epic” I say to him. We gather up and Becks and Asher demonstrate how to perform a
top rope rescue. I give it a go with Isaac as my victim. First I pull the slack
in the rope in and tie a knot in it keeping one hand locking off the belay
device at all times. Then I move into position and with my prusik I tie a
classic knot above me. From here I pull out a second prusik and tie a knot so I
can use it as a step ladder to pull myself up. Slowly but surely I make my way
up the climb using both prusiks. I stop every couple of meter to pull the slack
rope in from my belay device and re tie a knot in it. When I get to Isaac I
attach a line with a carabiner connect both of us together. With Isaac close I
take all the weight of my foot prusik and onto my belay device. I then untie
the knot in the belay device and abseil down. Top rope rescue successful. A little inefficient but for a first go not
bad. We alternate and this time Isaac rescues me. He makes it up but with some
struggle. He gets there in the end and completes the top rope rescues.We stop for lunch and prepare for a busy afternoon. The tutors want to see us execute another top rope rescue, catch a lead climb fall and complete a change over abseil. Isaac and I start with a top rope rescue then move onto a lead climb fall. Isaac is really nervous about the lead climb fall because he knows he’s a whole 30 kilos heavier than me. He gets in position and with his heart pumping he pushes away from the wall. I hold the rope tight and brace myself for Isaacs fall. The force and weight of Isaac picks me off the ground and lifts me 2 to 3 meters high. There is a huge cheer from the rest of the class. Job completed. I take a spectacular lead fall as well and then move onto the last challenge of the day completing a changeover abseil. I lead climb to the top, connect my two safety line and abseil down. I’m stoked with the day and have completely loved it. I haven’t always found this with rock climbing but today was on a total different level.
SELF DIRECTED LEARNING (P)
SDL Rock (P, I)
Location Mount Tibrogargan, Glass house mountains Australia
Date 18/8/16
Date 18/8/16
Group Kat, Pablo, Keri
Instructor N/A
Grade 11
Instructor N/A
Grade 11
Weather Fine / Blue bird
Learning Instructing others
Mount Tibrogargan climbs the equivalent of 50 high rise building. The summit route starts from the Mountain View lookout and continues for 300 meters up the western slope of the mountain. This first section of the summit route has very loose and unstable rock until you reach the ‘No waiting zone’. The route then continues up a near vertical rock face to the summit of 364 meters above sea level. I do this climb with my wife, Keri and Pablo. Very early on as the route steepens I am given the chance to instruct and mentor Keri and Kat up. I climb next to them pointing out good foot and hand holds. Slowly but surely we make our way up to the summit and enjoy the towering views. On the way down I use the same technique of instruction pointing out good hand and foot holds. In the more difficult zones I climb down before them and help guide there feet by taping on the rock that there foot needs to move into. Once at the bottom it smiles all round and mission complete.
SDL Rock
Location Charleston
Date 18/8/16
Mount Tibrogargan climbs the equivalent of 50 high rise building. The summit route starts from the Mountain View lookout and continues for 300 meters up the western slope of the mountain. This first section of the summit route has very loose and unstable rock until you reach the ‘No waiting zone’. The route then continues up a near vertical rock face to the summit of 364 meters above sea level. I do this climb with my wife, Keri and Pablo. Very early on as the route steepens I am given the chance to instruct and mentor Keri and Kat up. I climb next to them pointing out good foot and hand holds. Slowly but surely we make our way up to the summit and enjoy the towering views. On the way down I use the same technique of instruction pointing out good hand and foot holds. In the more difficult zones I climb down before them and help guide there feet by taping on the rock that there foot needs to move into. Once at the bottom it smiles all round and mission complete.
SDL Rock
Location Charleston
Date 18/8/16
Group Gat, Olivia
Instructor N/A
Instructor N/A
Weather Fine / Blue bird
Grade 16
Grade 16
Learning Correct nut placements, correct cam placements, building anchor systems
It's the holidays and looking at the weather it's going to be a great day to rock climb. I get to Gat's and Olivia's early and we head down the great coast road. The views up and down the coast are remarkable. Swell is rolling in and we arrive at Charleston at high tide. At Charleston the swells are humongous. We watch as the wave crash and exploded against the harden rock faces. We get out onto the cliffs tops and begin to build some anchor systems. Through out the day we build a few each and abseil and climb up them. We also go down bellow and practice nut and cam placements. I;m glad I came back and did some rock self directed learning because it is evident that I haven't rock climbed at all through out the year. It's a good day sharpening up my skills and much need one.
SDL Rock
Location Punakaiki
Date 19/8/16
Group Bryce, Juliet, Isaac
Instructor N/A
Grade 16
Instructor N/A
Grade 16
Weather Fine / Blue bird
Learning Climbing
techniques (smearing and edging) abseiling, lead climbing, belaying, cleaning
climbs, setting up a top rope
Its another beautiful west coast day. We had planned to get away early but a puncture has delayed things slightly. Once there i'm in the zone. I haven't climbed properly since climbing with the polytechnic in Wanaka so I have a few cob webs to blow out. The first climb I do is a lead climb that has an overhand in it. I complete the climb, set up a top rope and abseil down. Through out the day I belay a number of people and climb multiple times. Before we leave I clean a climb then drive to a climb called road side by the Punakaiki cavern. Here I help set up a top rope and we each have a climb. Its a awesome climb that involves wide hand grips and lot of feet work.
SDL Rock
Location Greymouth Rock Wall
Date 23/8/16
Group Mathew Schweizer
Instructor N/A
Grade 14-17
Instructor N/A
Grade 14-17
Weather N/A
SDL Rock
Location Rapahoe Beach
Date 11/9/16
Location Rapahoe Beach
Date 11/9/16
Group Simon
Instructor N/A
Grade Bouldering
Instructor N/A
Grade Bouldering
Weather Fine
Learning Climbing techniques (smearing and edging)
Learning Climbing techniques (smearing and edging)
SDL Rock
Location Charleston
Date 24/9/16
Location Charleston
Date 24/9/16
Group Jake, Silas, Lucy
Instructor N/A
Grade 14-17
Instructor N/A
Grade 14-17
Weather N/A
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